From traction alopecia to contact dermatitis, an expert shares the most common issues she hears about in her clinic & her top tips for tackling them
There are unique challenges that every hair texture faces. If you have straight hair, it might be greasy roots; if you have waves, it could be dry ends. If you have coily hair, it could be breakage. Every head is different however, there may be some hair and scalp problems that could be more common than others.
"By the time a patient has sat down and had their consultation, their diagnosis usually falls into one or a combination of the following most common conditions," Eleanore Richardson, consultant trichologist MIT at Fulham Scalp and Hair Clinic tells us. These are:
1. Fragilitas crinium: Fragile hair that is constantly breaking
2. Traction alopecia: Hair loss due to high tension styling practices, such as braids, weaves and wigs
3. Contact dermatitis: Itchy, flaky irritation of the scalp surface due to certain products
Do any of these sound familiar? If so, we’ve got you covered. We sat down with Eleanore to find out what causes these common hair and scalp conditions, how to prevent them and her recommendations for treating them. Read on to see her advice for healthier happier hair and team H&B’s top product picks, all of which have received glowing reviews on Boots.com.
1. Fragilitas crinium
What is fragilitas crinium?
If your Latin’s a little rusty, we’re here to help. Loosely translated, it means ‘fragility of the hair,’ and there can be many causes behind it. "This is where tiny fractures along the surface of the hair shaft accumulate from styling processes such as frequent direct heat, chemical straightening, colouring and back to back braiding," Eleanore explains.1
How to treat fragilitas crinium
Conditioning products can help, but keep expectations realistic. "Once hair is fractured, it can be patched up with conditioning agents provided by hair masks and leave-in conditioners, but it will never be truly repaired until the damage is trimmed away," Eleanore explains. Her advice? Book in for a regular trim every three months.
Team H&B’s top strengthening conditioner picks
2. Traction alopecia
What is traction alopecia?
Unlike other kinds of alopecia (like alopecia areata and androgenetic alopecia) that can be caused by the immune system or genetic factors, traction alopecia is a type of hair loss caused by strain on the hair follicles.
Certain hairstyles can lead to hair loss.2 "Styles such as tight single braiding or corn rowing, weaves or extensions of any kind can all contribute to tension," says Eleanore. "A follicle can only put up with so much tension before the cells surrounding it start to weaken. Hair starts to grow finer and finer giving the appearance of lost density." Symptoms include patches of thin or broken hair or shiny, scarred skin.3
How to treat traction alopecia
Good news – traction alopecia doesn’t have to be permanent. "Reduce how frequently you wear high-tension hairstyles and the length of time you wear them," Eleanore recommends.
"As traction alopecia is a progressive condition, the sooner you stop the tight styles the more likely you are to see recovery." Early diagnosis is key though, so it’s a good idea to book in with your GP, dermatologist or a trichologist if you start to notice signs. They may suggest minoxidil to stimulate hair growth, or topical corticosteroids to help with itching or redness.4
Team H&B’s top hair product picks for thinning hair
Try: Kitsch Satin Pillowcase, £15
• Dimensions: 66cm x 51cm
• Available in blush and white
Reduce friction while you sleep by swapping your cotton pillowcase for a silk or satin one. This satin pillowcase is designed to be gentler on fragile strands to help reduce breakage through the night – it also feels pretty luxurious and is so soft to sleep on.
3. Contact dermatitis
What is contact dermatitis?
Contact dermatitis is a type of eczema that’s triggered by contact with a certain irritant or allergen. It can result in an itchy scalp and skin can become dry, cracked and even blistered. Darker skin can also turn dark brown, purple or grey. It’s commonly caused by irritants in soaps, detergents or solvents that can be found in some hair care products.5
"In my experience, the most common cause of contact dermatitis on the scalp is an overloading of leave-in products along with infrequent hair washing," says Eleanore. "Other processes can sensitise the scalp so that it’s more likely to react to certain products, such as chemical straighteners (like relaxers, texturisers or texture release treatments), permanent hair colouring, bleaching or poor quality hair for extensions."
How to treat contact dermatitis
Usually, contact dermatitis improves if you’re able to identify and avoid the substance that’s causing the reaction.6 So have a scan of your haircare labels to see if you can spot the culprit.
"If your concerns are still present after eight weeks, seek advice from a qualified trichologist who can help with non-steroid based treatment approaches," Eleanore advises. Your GP or pharmacist may also be able to help. Treatment options can include emollients (moisturisers to prevent dryness) or topical corticosteroids, steroid ointments and creams that may help reduce symptoms.7
Team H&B’s top shampoo and cleanser picks
Contact dermatitis aside, recalibrating your hair-washing regime may help prevent itch-inducing product build-up that affects the scalp. "Hair and scalp should be washed a minimum of once a week, more if the scalp feels irritated, flaky or itchy as a hygienic scalp surface is important for skin to thrive," Eleanore recommends.
Here are three top shampoo and exfoliator picks from Boots.com – from top-rated to future classics.
Try: The Inkey List Salicylic Acid Exfoliating Scalp Treatment, £14.99
• Size: 150ml
• Alcohol and fragrance-free
Formulated for oily, itchy and flaky scalps, this lightweight exfoliating serum helps relieve itchiness, balance oil production and reduce redness to leave your scalp feeling lighter and fresher.
Shop more great buys for afro and textured hair in our full range.
All prices correct on date of publication
1https://www.britishmasterbarbers.com/latest-news/infections-infestations-and-disorders#:~:text=Fragilita2
2https://www.alopecia.org.uk/traction-alopecia-hair-loss3
3https://www.alopecia.org.uk/traction-alopecia-hair-loss4
4https://www.alopecia.org.uk/traction-alopecia-hair-loss5
5https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/contact-dermatitis/6
6https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/contact-dermatitis/7
7https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/contact-dermatitis/
